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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.